March 23, 2010

2010 Toronto Wine and Cheese Show

It's been a couple days and I've recovered nicely.

And though the show itself didn't turn out to be the drunk fest it was last year we wisely took a cab to the International Center.

Overall, the show felt smaller, less dense, less people...less fun. I can't put my finger on it but it seemed less busy, the "streets" between the booths seemed wider and one side lacked booths altogether whereas last year it had something going on everywhere. The drink tickets cost more too...instead of $1 per ticket like last year they jacked it up...$21 for 20...what is this, the TTC?? Dumb. I say why not just keep it an even number and make a few more wines 'cost' an extra ticket to taste? Even the oysters were smaller.


The 'fine wine' area was fancied up for sure. Rather than last year's white linened tables, they set up an actual faux "Cheers-like" bar. But the selection of fine wine was not as interesting to me as it was last year. No first growth Bordeaux at all that I saw.


Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild '05. 2nd wine of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild was really good, quite modern and surprisingly forward. 91.

Calon Segur '06. Damn good Bordeaux. More old school than the Rothschild. 92

Gaja Conteisa '04. Nebbiolo with a touch of Barbera. Delicious "Super Piedmont".  Very young but quite sweetish. Built to last but is drinking surprisingly drinking well now. 92

Blandy's Medira '68. This old Madiera tasted like pralines and cream, walnuts, yummy. 91

Also tried a Grand Cru '06 Échezeaux Burgundy which was really nice, a bit tight still but delicate, subtle and very refined. Long finish. But it's yet another example to me of just how much I don't "get" Burgundy. I understand the complexity, the elusive subtlety, the earthy fruitiness. But frankly, I just don't taste $185.


I did, however, taste the $112 in Torbreck's '08 viognier. This was the most unusual viognier I ever tasted. Smokey, waxy. I wrote down "Lagavulin". Amazing. 92+

But by the time we got to all this good stuff I was tasting fairly quickly so as not to be late for the food paring event which turned out to be quite fun.

Tickets for this food pairing event were $80 a head. We were lucky enough to get comped tickets via winealign.com so we certainly can't complain.

There were 6 tasting booths, each with it's own chef (and sous chefs) and sommelier. You go around tasting each dish sample and it's accompanying wine and judge which pairing is the best.

Each one was great. Judging was really splitting hairs...and it really was not a fair competition as you will see.

Each wine was surprisingly every-day wine costing no more than $20 a bottle. D'arenberg Original, Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc a greek muscat, a Canadian cabernet franc, an Argentinian malbec and an ice wine (probably the spendiest of the 6).

I was hoping for more exotic wines.

Back in the main wine show area these wines would cost 1 or 2 (possibly 3 for the ice wine) to taste. That's about $8-$12 worth of tasting. And the food, though great, was served in very small, several bite, samples. Perhaps in an top scale restaurant a couple of these might cost you $5-$15. Though most people would not think that was much of a deal for a few bites of rice or a single silver dollar sized slider. Yummy, though they were. Having said that we did go back for seconds for one dish and tried some other spirits afterward. So, taking everything in consideration, people got what they paid for.

The first pairing we tried was a red-pepper mock tartare (complete with faux yellow pepper egg-yolk) with an un-oaked Vineland cabernet franc. The "tartare" tasted like sweet peppers, and so did the wine. A very clever match, though I can't say that I loved either the dish or the wine all that much, but the pairing was a good one. Though I suspect this pairing was reverse engineered; The wine had a strong red pepper flavour, so they made a red pepper dish. Unique.


Second up was spiced Indian biryani with a greek muscat white. An excellent pairing from sommelier and super-nice guy, Zoltan Szabo. I prefer pairings that contrast each other rather than match each other. This was a nice contrast with the bold and refreshing greek white cooling the warm savory rice. Simple and perfect. I think in the end it's simplicity is what was overlooked.


Third was a spicy tuna tartare matched with an ice wine. I really liked this idea until I tried it. The tuna tartare, in addition to it's great chile-pepper heat, was unexpectedly very sweet. I'm not sure how it was sweetened but it was sweet. And sweet + sweet = very sweet. I think this would have been much better if the tuna tartare kept the heat but lost the sweet. The the ice wine would then have it's place in quenching the palate. Instead I found the whole thing a bit too cloying.


Fourth was a sort of lamb stew/ragout served on a strip of fried won-ton with a Catena malbec. Totally yummy but a rather obvious choice. A dry, white Bordeaux might have been an interesting contrast to cut through it's richness but what do I know.



Fifth: Here's the winner. Poached halibut with lobster meat and a creamy sauce with black rice risotto made by a team of people and served with the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc. Yeah, rich and delicious indeed. This is the one we went back for. But the wine match was totally obvious and unoriginal. Well, I suppose it's slightly more original than if they had chosen a really buttery chardonnay. I felt that serving a citrusy wine like that with fish was playing it pretty safe. But the food was damn good though and I've always like the wine. Personally, I think the dish was rich and earthy enough, especially with that risotto, to stand up to a medium bodied Pinot Noir, a Burgundy even.



Finally, sixth was a smoky, slow-cooked bison slider with D'Arenberg D'arrys Original shiraz/grenache. Loved the slider and I like the wine but I thought the smokey slider over-powered the wine, which is relatively light and fruity. Here is where they could have brought out a great big modern Aussie shiraz.



Even though they tell us "it not about the food or the wine, it's about the pairing". How can rice compete with lobster? It can't. Thus the whole competition was unfairly skewed.

I suggest next time they have budget and man-power constraints to keep the play fair.

But like I said, it's splitting hairs, everything was delicious and the whole event was fun.

After we tried a Greek liquor made from tree sap or some damn thing called Skinos . Interestingly weird. "Buckley's booze" I wrote.

Also tried "Vice" ostensibly a martini pre-mix of vodka and icewine. I think they came up with the name, thought it was clever then mixed some mediocre vodka with some mediocre icewine to go with the name. Pretty awful stuff. Do yourself a favour; if you feel like such a concoction, do a shot of Grey Goose, then sip some nice ice wine.

One other wine we had, which was fun, was a Batasiolo Moscato D'Asti ($17 @ LCBO). At 5.5% it's basically wine-beer. Sweet, lychees, granny smith apples, will be a fun summer drink. 87.

There were a dozen or so other wines I tried which I will review on winealign.com

you can find all my reviews here: http://www.winealign.com/profile/1042

So after all that we grabbed a cab downtown to do some more drinking...




after more wine and scotch we got home to find our neighbour's having a belated St. Patricks day party, we grabbed some Guinness from our fridge and went over...Advil and water capped off the night.

I found the water light bodied, minerally with perhaps a touch of swimming pool. 86

The Advil were pretty blue-green gelcaps, no bitterness at all. 100

Best score of the night.

March 16, 2010

4 days until the 2010 Toronto Wine and Cheese show!

Last year was my first big wine show, the 2009 Toronto wine and cheese show held at the International Centre up by the airport...where I saw my first concert by the way....Ozzy. It rocked!!



Anyway at the wine show I drank a lot of wine.

A lot.

By the end I felt like Hunter S. Thomson...goddamn lizards everywhere.

I still have all my barely legible notes.

The top 5 winners for me were:

1. Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva '98, Ribera del Duero, Spain ($419)
2. Ch. Mouton-Rothschild '04, Paulliac, Bordeaux, France ($395)
3. Ch. Haut-Brion '04, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France ($329)
4. Ch. De Fargues '01, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France ($119)
5. Mission Hill Oculus '05, British Columbia, Canada ($60)


Also the oysters and prosciutto were pretty good.

As you can see, winning don't come cheap. But of course that's the point of a wine show..you can try all manner of wines that you might normally not try either because of price or availability.

The website has a list of the wines they plan on showcasing:

http://www.towineandcheese.com/exhibitor-list.html

in my sights for '10 are:

06 Echezeaux Grand Cru Jadot
05 Gaja Barbaresco
03 Valbuena 5 Vega Sicilia
and well...pretty much all the bordeauxs and brunellos.

But in addition to tasting some of the best wines in the world, the great thing about the show is that you can taste a zillion wines that are reasonably priced.

It's easy to find good wine buy spending $50+ a bottle...that's no challenge.

Finding a $20 bottle of wine that tastes like $50...that's the challenge.

Last year I tasted  Kim Crawford's Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $20 ('Pink grapefruit!" I exclaimed) and it's been one of our house whites ever since. Also I liked Mission Hill's reserve merlot $22, but I can't remember it.

So this year I hope to taste some mind blowing wines I can't afford. But I also hope to find some inexpensive, over-delivering, yummy bottles that we can all afford.

I think we're going Saturday, I'll report back, Sunday...maybe monday....or maybe Tuesday.

March 12, 2010

I'm not drinking any f***ing Merlot!!

Oh yes you are Paul Giamatti from "Sideways".    

 eewwww spit-bucket...chug chug chug!!

Apparently his character's remarks in the film Sideways took a chunk out of the U.S. merlot market for a while. Because of course when a fictional character in a fictional movie says something about something you don't know about, it must be true: Merlot sucks, pinot noir is awesome.

The big irony of the movie is that his treasured bottle of Cheval Blanc '61 that he guzzles down in a styrofoam cup while eating onion rings is about half merlot.

Personally I've had just as many over-priced, underwhelming pinot noirs as I have cheap, flabby merlots.

But better to be disappointed on a $12 bottle than a $40 bottle.

Comparing different wines made from different varieties of grapes is silly anyway. Even though they all are made from grapes, different grapes make very different wines. You wouldn't compare a Corona with a Chimay. You would be better to compare a Corona with a Sol and Chimay with God's sweat.



On one hand, merlot is a wine that people who don't really drink wine drink. It's often sweet, juicy, smooth and utterly glugable. On the other hand it's a wine that many wine-lovers don't drink because it's often sweet, juicy, smooth and utterly glugable. When I think of merlot I think of the ever-present magnum of inexpensive Chilean wine my mom has on her kitchen counter (Santa Carolina I believe).  Ostensibly her weeks worth. Sheeahh right. Always tastes too sweet for me.

There was a "60 Minutes" episode about 20 years ago called "The French Paradox" which discussed the (somewhat dubious) assertion that the French are healthier than "us" in spite of their high fat diet. The theory was perhaps because they also drink a lot of red wine maybe it somehow cancels out the bad effects of the butter and duck fat.

God, I hope so.

Conflicting evidence or not, at the time a lot of fat-assed Americans and Canadians with high hopes of canceling out all those Big Macs and Cheese-Doodles rushed out to the wine shops and demanded a bottle of easy to drink red wine for medicinal reasons.

















 









That red wine was merlot.





Fat, juicy, fruity, fun, gregarious ... merlot at it's best can can be this:

                                                Liberace: livin' well!

But most of the time it's this:

   The Liberace impersonator:
  Eliciting polite applause for 35 years.

...still fat, juicy, fruity and gregarious...but only an impression of greatness.

My favorite merlot-based wines come from the 'right-bank' of Bordeaux, France such as the Saint-Émilion or Pomerol regions, usually they have some cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc blended in as well. 'Left-bank' wines, like from Medoc, are predominately cabernet sauvignon-based and tend to be more austere and require longer aging.  


In many cases, like in Bordeaux, merlot is just part of the blend. It mixes well with cabernet sauvignon, adding a fleshy mid-palate fatness that the cabernet on it's own sometimes lacks.

And lest anyone think that merlot is an inferior grape look no further than Chateau Petrus (peh-troos')..it's around 95% merlot and is one the most expensive wines in the world and lasts for a generation or more:



But here's a few regular ol' merlots that are perfectly yummy...The first 2 I'd score in the mid-80's, good drinking wines, the third one is particularly good: 88+.

 Cono Sur Merlot, Chile $10. These guy make good wine at great prices.


 Marcus James Merlot, Argentina $10, Also good wine at a good price.


Casa Lapostelle Merlot, Chile $17. Really good. More complex and tannic than the others, decant it for an hour or so. A good food wine. Has the structure to cellar for at least 5 or even 10 years!

I've never tasted Cheval Blanc but I have tasted it's baby brother, the second wine of Cheval Blanc, "Le Petit Cheval 2005" ( $209 @ LCBO) which is a blend of merlot and cabernet franc.



I gave it an 88-90+...not much higher than the $17 bottle above....hardly 12 times better. Though to be fair it needed a few more years in the bottle or some vigourous decanting, The taste I had was right out of a newly opened bottle.

The price of a bottle of wine reflects it's quality, it's pedigree, it's rarity and it's hype...but that doesn't mean you'll like it.